Help - Frequently asked questions |
- Q1. I've forgotten my Username or Password!
- Enter your email address below, and click the submit button. If you exist in the system your username and password will be emailed to you.
- Q2. The system has changed my password?
- If you or someone else enters the incorrect password three times the system automatically changes your password to a new random sequence. To recover your password see the question above.
- Q3. Can I change my Username and Password?
- Yes you can. Click Here to open the change user details page.
- Q4. My login gets forgotten between pages, what can I do?
- This website needs to set "Cookies" (ie. small pieces of temporary data) on your browser to maintain the login session. It is likely you have acceptance of cookies turned off in your browser. Go to your browser's preferences menu option (Preferences in Netscape, Internet Options in Explorer) and switch on the "Accept Cookies" feature. In Netscape this is found under the security settings and in Explorer it can be achieved by setting your Security level to Medium on the Internet tab (or enabling persistent data in custom setups).
Also note that this site will automatically log you out...- After 30 minutes of no activity on the website.
- At midnight should you forget to log out (this applies even if you are using the website at the time - you'll need to log back in).
- Q5. What's this "Time Taken for Task" field in ALL the worksheets now?
- We have decided to log volunteer hours against ALL tasks (Kiwi Management, Predator Control & Official Kiwi Listening). So as you are entering new data select how much time it took you. In the Predator Captures and Possum Feeder pages total hours only needs to be entered with one trap or feeder for that particular day of work (repeating the task hours for that Line on the same day but with different traps/feeders has NO adverse effect!). With Kiwi stuff, if you have done multiple Kiwi's on the same work outing you are going to need to guesstimate how much of your total time was devoted to each Kiwi and divide your total time amongst the data entry sheets appropriately (Don't put the total time in multiple entries otherwise YOU WILL cause adverse effect!). To view this data - go to Reports/General/Volunteer Hours.
- Q6. How are trap names numbered?
- The trap numbers are set by the administrator. They are made up of the Trap Line Code (eg. BV for Bridal Veil), the Trap Type (ST = Stoat Trap, PT = Possum Trap, CT = Cat Trap, PF = Possum Feeder), a unique Trap Number (01-99), then optionally a suffix (A-E). So stoat trap number 12 in the Bridal Veil line would appear as "BVST12". Suffix's are used to denote traps that may be of a temporary nature, or traps almost adjacent oneanother. On the actual ground the traps will only have a number, or the line code and number (eg. 12 or BV12).
- Q7. I can't find a trap number?
- See above about how traps are numbered. Are you entering the wrong Trap Line as the system will only show traps dedicated to specific lines. Alternatively there may be an error in the database or the trap in the field is numbered incorrectly - either way talk to one of the administrators (Graeme, Gerald or Mel).
- Q8. I've moved/removed/added/renumbered some traps in a line. What should I do?
- You need to talk to one of the Administrators (Graeme, Gerald or Mel). If you have added or moved traps we will need updated GPS locations. Ask Mel for the Kiwi recovery GPS.
- Q9. Where do I find instructions on how to use the DOC 150 & DOC 200 traps?
- To open PDF files dealing with these trap types...
- Q10. Can I purchase my own traps and set new lines?
 Yes, BUT, before you do please discuss your intention with one of the Arthur's Pass Trapping Coordinators, as the placement of the line needs to be effective, and work in with other existing lines to promote the best protection possible for endemic species. Remember trap lines tend to be labour intensive, about once weekly checks during summer, and monthly in Winter. DOC 150's & 200's can be purchased directly from... Haines Pallet Co. Ltd. Ph: 04 568 6898, Email: haines.pallets@paradise.net.nz.
- Q11. I want to learn more about control of predators/mustelids?
- Click Here to open a PDF document (1.2Mb) prepared by Craig Gillies of the Department of Conservation on the subject. It contains brief and well illustrated comment, and good information on the habits (eating/breeding) of stoats etc.
- Q12. What is the best type of location for a stoat trap to be effective?
- Generally the best locations for stoat traps are:
- Stream edges.
- Bushland edge.
- Along fencelines or rock walls.
- Animal runs (ie. hare trails).
- Crossings over water courses (fallen logs).
- Fallen trees.
- Along tracks, roads or railways.
On a more site specific level:- Keep traps near or under cover
- Dig the ground over at the trap site a little.
- If the site has long grass place a "run" over it to the trap (eg. a log).
- If a trap hasn't caught anything for 2 years consider moving it.
- If your trap is in a "hot spot" consider installing more traps.
- Q13. What should I do with stoats I catch?
- There are two schools of thought on this:
Plan A) Put the stoat in a plastic bag and dispose of it in one of the Village waste bins.
Plan B) Leave the carcass near your trap (if you note the carcass is being canibalised but your trap isn't catching anything revert to Plan A.)
- Q14. What is the best location for possum feeders to be mounted?
- The best location for possum feeders are:
- South side of larger trees (so NW rain doesn't spoil the bait).
- Mountain Beech trees.
- In areas of forest on the bush edge, not small patches of trees or lone trees.
- Mount about 1.5m-2m above the ground about 20-40cm above a limb the possum could stand on.
- It has been found that mounting the feeders using the side nail hole (rather then the rear) allows a possum to swing the feeder forward and extract the feed more easily, the feeders can also be refilled or emptied more easily (the base plate doesn't need removal) when they are mounted this way
- Q15. Why can't I have Administrator rights so I can change my own trap data?
- The less fingers changing data in this database the better, it is a very valuable resource it has taken many hours to input the historical records from 2002 onwards and to have it accidentally wiped will probably make someone cry.
- Q16. What's the difference between a stoat and a weasel?
- Good question, the only real physical difference is the stoat is likely to have a dark or black tip on its tail. The real difference is life-span, a stoat will last 10 years whilst the weasel barely lasts 3 years. A stoat will only have one litter of kittens a year while a weasel can have two. At the end of the day when you are looking at a stoat or weasel dead in a trap its life-span and identity is pretty academic.
  .
- Q17. What should I bait my stoat traps with?
- The best bait is rabbit/hare meat, but in our moist environment it becomes rancid & unpalateable very quickly, traps also take some cleaning out to get rid of the smell. Meat could be used if you suspect a "family" of stoats in the vicinity of a trap and it is checked daily. Normally you should use a chicken egg, fertilised eggs are better because they have a stronger scent, but by simply pricking a hole with a pin in the shell will achieve the same result. In the warmer months replace the eggs about once a month, over winter they last almost 3-4 months as they remain frozen. Other good baits include salted rabbit meat (though stoats won't eat this they are attracted to it), dipping an egg in Marmite or Vegemite, lubricating the traps with liquid fish oil also works a treat.
- Q18. The traps really smelly what should I do?
- More than likely it smells of "musk" which is not a big problem as it could attract another stoat in to investigate, as it is "sprayed" when a mustelid is alarmed. However if it smells like dead meat, or there has been a decaying stoat in the trap for some time it might pay to give it a quick wash in the river and move it a few metres away from its original location as it is likely other stoats may have visited the trap and not really liked what they saw.
- Q19. I think there is a wild cat hunting near my trap line what should I do?
- You could borrow a cat trap from one of the administrators, but you'll need to check it daily as they are "live catch" traps. The floor of the trap must be lined with newspaper as cats won't walk onto the wire grate, and baited with fresh meat, you also need to put the back of the trap against a tree to stop a cat "pawing" a bait. If you are using a Timms Trap bait it with a fish head. Because these traps could also catch Weka or Kea they should be placed under thick scrub and again checked daily. Don't try and handle a wild cat - they are not your cute & cuddly tabby! Cats must be dispatched humanely.
- Q20. What is the best type of location for a cat trap to be effective?
- The best locations for cat traps are:
- Q21. What should I bait a possum trap with?
- Whether its a "live catch" or Timms Trap makes no difference to baiting. Use apple or banana. Because Weka or Kea could be caught by these same traps maybe put a bit of cinnamon powder on the bait, and check "live catch" traps daily. Place traps under dense scrub.
- Q22. Why doesn't the Kiwi I heard appear on the maps?
- It is very likely you didn't enter a direction or distance, as the program needs these two important parameters to calculate the position of the Kiwi. It is also likely you may have entered a House Rapid Number that no GPS coordinates exist for, and again the program cannot calculate the Kiwi's location (talk to Graeme about this type of error). And finally it is possible your Kiwi is in the exact location of another Kiwi of a different or unknown sex and the coloured graphic dot may be covering your Kiwi's location.
- Q23. Why is it the location of Kiwi shown on the maps seem to move around a bit between viewings?
- The software automatically adds a random number of metres (-5m to +5m) to the Kiwi's location when it is displaying them. This is because the location data tends to be quite coarse and it is very likely over time Kiwi will end up positioned on top of existing Kiwi. So there is some chance of preventing this happening the graphic program suffles the Kiwi's location slightly.
- Q24. I keep getting database error messages?
- If you have logged in successfully, and you keep getting messages that look something like this... Error: Could not retrieve "traplines" database! for example have a talk to Graeme as this is abnormal behaviour of the program.
- Q25. Why do traps locations I entered show in the middle of or on the wrong side of roads etc?
- This probably comes down to the accuracy of the GPS readings on the day, which is determined by the number of satellites visible and other things like your location in trees, gorges etc. A error of 5m is enough to put you on the wrong side of a road. You could modify the last 2 digits in a GPS coordinate to force the position (eg. Changing a Easting of 2392272 to 2392277 moves it 5m to the east. Changing a Northing of 5808785 to 5808780 moves it 5m to the south).
- Q26. On the Graphical Search what is the "Show Predator Capture Intensity" about?
- Basically this will show you Stoat Traps that have caught Stoats, Rats, Weasels or Ferrets. The bigger the circle the more they have caught during the sample period set by the Start & End Dates. You get some sense of intensity by the size but also by the fact that traps close together may have overlapping circles which deepen in colour to suggest greater predator numbers. If you need to know the exact numbers check "Include Capture Intensity Text" under Options and the number of predators caught will appear beside the Intensity circles.
- Q27. How do I log those beeps coming from the Kiwi transmitters?
- Try and record the beeps well after dawn and well before sunset, to avoid active birds. Two persons make the job easier, however if you can point the antenna without holding it, one person could manage the recording. Each Kiwi has its own unique transmission channel (01-99), dial up the appropriate channel on the TR4 Receiver for your bird. Set the fine tuning to "0", point the antenna and find the strongest signal, rotate the fine tuning so the beeps you hear are clear & crisp. If the beeps are going rapidly then slow, it is in the middle of the "beeps sequence", you will need to wait several minutes (up to 10 mins) for it to cycle. If the beeps are at a constant pace, time how many beeps there are per minute, this is the "pulse rate" (30 is normal for adult tx, 40 for chick tx, 48 is brooding an egg, 70-80 is dead/lost tx), record it. Note: Chick transmitters only have a pulse rate! Before the beeps sequence starts there is a brief pause (2 seconds), after that a string of fast beeps will be heard, another brief pause (2 secs), then a 2nd string of fast beeps. These are the 1st pair of rapid beeps of 15 pairs, count them & record them in sequence. Between rapid pairs of beeps, 5 slow beeps will be heard then the brief pause then the rapid beeps sequence commences again with the 2nd pair, slow beeps, pause, 3rd pair, and so on.
 The minimum rapid beeps heard in any pair part is 2, the maximum is 11. If you lose your place, until you get good at it, unfortunately you'll need to wait and start again.
- Q28. The signal strength from the Kiwi Transmitter keeps varying?
- This generally means your Kiwi is on the move, ducking in and out of trees and ground features. If it is getting towards nightfall this is not unexpected as Kiwi are obviously nocturnal creatures, however we have found in Arthur's Pass that some of our Kiwi get pretty active earlier in the afternoons (especially approaching winter), or in stormy weather periods when the bird is seeking out dryer abodes. Having a varying signal makes it near impossible to do effective location fixes, and beeps listening can also be a bit "hit & miss", maybe consider trying again around 9am to 2pm.
- Q29. The Kiwi Transmitter beeps are coming in at 70-80 beeps per minute!
- Get a 2nd opinion, then if confirmed, notify Mel. A beep sequence at this rate indicates the Kiwi has either dropped the transmitter module or the Kiwi is dead! Either way the Kiwi/TX will need prompt tracking down to work out the problem, recover a dead bird and autopsy it. If it is an adult transmitter, get the full beeps sequence so ALL possible activity for the last 7 days is not lost when the TX is turned off.
- Q30. The Kiwi Transmitter has lots of interference!
- Are you near power lines - move away from them! Some of the transmitter frequencies get interference from other local transmitters - in Arthur's Pass it is the DOC repeaters and the Railway transmitters. Before putting a new TX on a bird it would pay to scan that frequency for a time to see if anything else is using it (Thus far #66 is a poor channel in Arthur's Pass).
|
|
|
Copyright ©
2010 by SoftRock Enterprises. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
|
